Thursday, June 21, 2012

FIFA in Salvador - What's going to happen?


Last night I went out with some friends to a public debate on the consequences the FIFA World Cup will have on the city of Salvador. It was interesting enough, but there was one point in particular that really caught my attention. My first impressions of Salvador’s preparations for the World Cup were that Salvador was not at all prepared. The bus system in Salvador is the same as always – there have been days that I’ve waited for up to an hour for my bus. The absence of bus schedules definitely increases the amount of frustration at the bus stops. The only way to know the times and the routes of each bus, is to ask. 

Now imagine arriving and only knowing how to speak English – good luck for taking public transport and finding your way around the city, as the majority of people you’ll see on the street speak absolutely no English – besides basic phrases such as: “The book is on the table.” 

The buses are often overcrowded during peak times, and the traffic is much worse than it was a few years ago. Not to mention the non-existent metro, which has been in construction for over twenty years but supposedly won’t be ready in time for FIFA. Initially, I, as well as all of the Brazilians I talked to about the arrival of the Cup, said that this was due to the unpreparedness of the Brazilian government – leaving everything to last minute. But during the debate, I gained a different perspective on this so-called “unpreparedness”. It seems to be that this is all part of a strategy. The government is prepared and aware (as well as the FIFA organization), of all the changes that are going to take place, but is keeping this information secret. Everything will come together efficiently and last minute, and it will be much more difficult for the citizens and residents to put up a resistance to the changes that will take place. Many, many people will be moved from their homes, making room for new infrastructure; the names of neighborhoods will then be changed, becoming more chic and also more expensive, so that the previous residents will no longer be able to afford it. It was a very depressing debate.

There is so much manipulation of information in the media, that no one sees the true consequences of the FIFA World Cup. I could even draw a parallel between the passivity of the Brazilian people facing the arrival of FIFA and the lack of demonstrations against the changes that will take place, and the passivity of the students on strike at my university. The only thing I notice about the strike when going to school is that there a few big posters up in several places on campus, with slogans such as: “UFBA on Strike” and “Free Public Education for Everyone”, and a much quicker line up at the campus cafeteria (what was once an hour of waiting in line is now only 15 minutes!) But this means that the students, rather than being pro-active and using their time to manifest in the streets, etc, etc, they are at home, at the beach, or at a party. I’m not saying that all the UFBA students on strike are like this, I am sure there is a small percentage of representatives that are working hard in order to improve the situation, but at least from everything I’ve seen and heard, it certainly seems like the vast majority are. 

Friday, June 15, 2012

Barra Grande


The rest of my time in Barra Grande, fortunately, was much better. The next morning I ate my breakfast in the fisherman’s village (where I was staying), and a young girl (I’m guessing she was 15) cooked me some scrambled eggs and sweet potato (it’s different from the sweet potato in Canada. This one resembles a root, and tastes and looks like a potato when mashed, but has a sweet taste to it). I ate it with grated coconut, and it was delicious. I chatted a bit with the girl (I believe her name was Dede) over breakfast, and found out that the fisherman had left that morning at 2am for a fishing trip, and would only be back in a few days. After my morning breakfast I had almost forgotten about how bad the room was, and was considering staying another night after the older woman said she would clean it up for me. But after coming back after a day at the beach, it was just as bad as before, and sadly enough I took my backpack and set off. I would have liked to stay there more for the experience, because it was everything but your typical touristy hotel, but at the same time having clean water and enough water to shower are essential factors in any hostel room. I had spent an unexpectedly lovely day walking 9km in the rain towards Taipu de Fora, a beach well known for it’s coral reefs, where I rented some snorkeling gear and set off for the next hour exploring an underground world full of colored fish. I really can’t explain what it was about Barra Grande, because despite the fact that it rained almost the whole time I was there. The next day I went out on a boat trip to visit several nearby islands. It was a bit less adventurous than my first day, but I chatted with a pleasant couple from São Paulo who found it extremely courageous that I was out there travelling alone. I don’t think I could have met any more people or had a more interesting trip travelling with others, because everywhere I went, be it on the boat trip or morning breakfast or on the beach, people would stop and chat for a bit before heading on their way. I’m already planning on heading back to Barra Grande for my last month in Brazil – it will be a bit like living the dream life, this is what my definition of true paradise is – having the whole day ahead of you to do whatever you please, be it surfing, or snorkeling, or diving (which I plan on trying). At the same time, after Barra Grande, I think it will be even harder to leave Brazil! Also, the nice thing about this place is that, unlike so many other touristy spots in Bahia, Barra Grande is still not as commercialized as the others. Twelve years ago, I believe there were only one or two farms here, and the rest of the inhabitants were fisherman. Now, it’s starting to be more well known, but it hasn’t reached the point where you don’t see any of the actual locals when you go in the downtown area, like it is in a few other places I’ve been to, where the town seems to have only tourists. I’m not even sure I should be naming this place, because I want to be able to go back in ten years and still recognize it, which I think is unlikely. My last night I decided to go out, which I had been hesitant at first because I feel a bit strange going out at night on my own, but the owner at the hostel (which was cheaper than my first night, had hot clean running water, and zero cockroaches!) convinced me that I should. Normally I would head back to my hostel at about 8-9pm after wandering downtown, finding that there wasn’t too much to do, but apparently everything started after 10. So that night, as I entered the town square, I was very pleasantly surprised to find a band playing samba, and so many kids dancing in front, while the adults, watched and conversed among themselves. I met someone I had talked to earlier that day, who explained to me how his sister had married a German that had come here on vacation, and now he lives six months in Barra Grande, and six months in Germany. I was not surprised.  Later on, more people started dancing to samba, and I couldn’t help myself. I love Samba – it feels like one of the most natural dances on the planet – there is no fancy footwork like in tango or salsa, you just have to feel the rhythm of the music and move. I couldn’t believe how well the young girls danced – there was one who had to be about 8 or 9 years old, that could dance much better that I could, much  much better. And you dance barefeet! Just recalling these memories fills me with ‘saudades’, which is  a Portuguese word to describe the feeling of missing something.

And just to give an update on the strike, it won’t affect me as much as I thought it would, as only two of my five teachers will be on strike, and they have already told me that they would ‘work something out’ and ‘make an exception’ for my case. Which will probably consist of me having to answer a few questions, hand in an extra paper, and pronto! I’ll have my final mark.

I’ll end this entry with a few chosen pictures of my trip, taken during my walk along the beach from Barra Grande to Taipu de Fora. 




Monday, June 11, 2012

First night in Barra Grande


An excerpt taken from my travel journal leaving Barra Grande on June 9th, 2012: 

I am leaving paradise on a tiny ferry boat. This trip was amazing. I arrived Thursday night, after a longer than expected day of travel from Salvador to Barra Grande. Waiting for the boat to leave from Camamu to Barra Grande, I met two friendly young men with diving gear and harpoons. One of them started chatting with me and told me that the woman who lived on the same lot as him rented out cheap rooms to travelers. He was a wood sculptor and his friend visiting from Itacaré, a nearby surf town, to teach him how to fish with harpoons. The house was just a five minute walk from where we disembarked. So off  we went, harpoon gear in hand (or on shoulder) along the sandy beaches of Barra Grande. If I was looking for a cheap pousada (hotel), he said, this was the place to go. We arrived soon enough, and after I had a quick lookover at the room and was told the price (30 reais with breakfast included), I accepted. Now, at first glance, the room really did seem alright. Fresh sheets and towels laid out nicely on the bed, a mosquito net, TV, and everything seemed fairly clean. I laid down my backpack and proceeded to the bathroom. It was upon opening the bathroom door that I realized maybe this hadn’t been the best idea. There were mosquitos everywhere – you could even hear the low buzz fill the room. I nervously lifted up the toilet seat, to find several dead flies on the lid. It didn’t stop there. The tap water was yellow – really yellow. I definitely wasn’t brave enough to use it for brushing my teeth, but what about taking a shower? I took a step into the shower entrance. A cockroach was waiting for me. Okay, I can handle this. Remember that movie, Joe’s Apartment? I watched it when I was about five years old, but it left imprinted in my mind the idea that cockroaches weren’t so bad –  But then I saw one on the wall. I jumped, and saw the other cockroach  scurry into the shower drain. I guess I wouldn't be taking a shower that night either.

That night I went out for a quick bite, but it was already dark on the way back and I had forgotten to even ask for the name of the place I was staying at – not smart when the only way you know to get there is by the beach but at night the tide goes up and angry dog’s are guarding their owner’s property. I tried to go behind, by road, except that there were no street lights – after asking someone for directions: What’s the name of the place you’re going? You don’t know? Where the wood sculpter lives in the fisherman’s village? Right … well then maybe try this way. And good luck. This wasn't looking too good. But I was lucky, and made it to the pousada safe and sound. Soon after arriving, I tucked in the mosquito net around my bed (it wasn't just the mosquitoes I was worried about) and fell asleep. 

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Baia de Todos os Santos

The bus prices went up from 2.50 to 2.80 this week, so I've decided to walk the hour to school at least once a day to save money. This evening, coming home, I decided to stop for acarajé, a typical Bahian street food made from fried beans in dendê (palm) oil. It's been less than 10 minutes since finishing it and already my stomach is making strange noises. It has the same amount of calories that a normal human being consumes in one day.

This weekend I went on a boat trip for the day around Baía de Todos os Santos (All Saint's Bay), which is apparently the second largest navigable bay in the world. It was beautiful, even though it rained a bit, so I've put up a few pictures. Also, when we were docked at an island, another boat came by with a white cross on top. It was filled with women (and some men) dancing as part of a ritual in Candomblé, which is an Afro-Brazilian religion practiced by some here in Salvador. The video is below.


In other news, the teachers are still undecided about the strike, with a few already on strike and some completely against it, which leaves us students in a discouraging situation, some people having only one class out of five. The students here are talking about going on strike, some are saying to support the teachers, others in order to improve other aspects of their education, but everything is still up in the air and uncertain. One last little comment about the education here: Today I had a test and the teacher decided to put us in pairs! Another thing I've noticed during tests is that an enormous number of people cheat, about half the class (but it could be that just my class has an abnormal high number of cheaters). And also, there are almost no final exams. In Canada, after classes end, we have about three weeks of exam period, but here, the tests are during normal class time and when classes are over, that's it, there's no final exam that goes over everything you learnt that semester. No stress. 











Boat with Candomblé
Baianas dancing during ritual of Candomblé

Map of Baia de Todos os Santos









Street in Itaparica

Election Campaign Posters



Ferry Boat Itaparica - Salvador